Wansheng

OFTEN OVERLOOKED

Ask most people what there is to see in Chongqing and you'll probably only hear about the world famous Three Gorges and Dazu Grottoes. But there is far more to Chongqing than most people ever have the time to discover.

I'd like to introduce you the Wansheng district just 90 minutes by bus (130kms) from Chongqing's Nanping bus station. The most famous scenic spots here include Shi Lin (Stone forest) a mountain peak often shrouded in cloud and mist, said to rival Kunming's more famous stone forest in both age and interest, and Hei Shan Gou (Black Mtn Valley), a spectacular pair of deep, precipitous gorges and streams.

Hotels are plentiful and reasonable in Wansheng if you choose to overnight there. Accommodation is also available at the major tourist attractions so if you have your own transport or traveling light this is practical. Wansheng like most towns in this area is set in a long, narrow valley. The expressway ends just a few kilometers from the outskirts of town. On the way into town you will pass what looks like a bus depot on the left just before crossing the river and the railway line. Wansheng's main road splits just after crossing the river into a rather large round about circling a large central commercial and residential block with two one way streets. Just after the split you will pass a tourist' bus kiosk on the right before continuing around the back of the block to the bus station. (Soon to be relocated further down the main street beyond the bus Kiosk near the train station.)

Buses from CQ leave every 30 mins or when full from Nanping Long Distance bus station, no more than Y30 taxi from most areas of town. First bus leaves around 6.30am with last bus returning at 5.00pm. It's Y30 each way for 90 min trip. Buses from Nanchuan pass through Wansheng on route to CQ and it is possible to wait near the bus depot on the outskirts of town to pick up a ride for the same price. We caught one at 6.00pm. Ask around - they may run later than this too if you get stuck.
There is also a Tourist Train, which is a little slower but if you'e into slow trains and have the time it might be a nice trip. Check at station for departure times etc

Organised tours are also available.

Wanshengs sights include

Hei Shan Gou (Black Mountain Valley)

20kms Y60 (Entrance fee) Takes about 1 hour, Y5 to the South gate and last local bus returning to Wansheng departs from the north gate at about 5.30pm. Buses leave (every 90 mins). There's an 18 min cable car ride (new one)Y20 down to the bottom or you can walk this section of the gorge (leave extra time for this), then it’s a 3 hour leisurely walk out. At the end of the walk where you begin to tire on the flat terrain there is an electric bus for Y20, which is well worth it as it saves you a long walk to the park entrance at the north gate where you can catch another bus. Features include suspended plank road, suspension bridges, two very different valleys, narrow gorges, waterfalls, beautiful vegetation, butterflies and birds. Food is available at the junction of the two streams and is a nice place to take a short break.
Allow 4 hours to walk and enjoy

Shi Lin (Stone Forest)

23 kms Approx 1 hour on local bus Y5 Open 8.30 to 5.00pm. Y50 (Entrance fee) includes tour of cave and Ethnic Dance show twice a day, at 11.00am and 2.00pm in the teahouse. Guests are encouraged to participate.
You can manage without a guide but it is a real maze and if the weather is misty it may pay to hire one or tag along with another group so as not to get lost. This stone forest is unique as it is situated on the peak of the mountain and is often shrouded in cloud or mist. It often rains, adding to it’s beauty and mistique and enhancing the character of the stone formations. It is reportedly the second largest of it’s kind, the other being in Guilin and it rivals that of Kunming in both age and interest.
Sedan chairs are available to take you up the numerous stairs to the top if you’re feeling tired or just plain lazy.
Allow 2 to 3hours to look around.

Jiu Guo Qing Forest Park

38Kms Y50/60 (Entrance fee) More difficult to get to as there is little or no public transport to this park located near Ao Tao Ji on the connection road between Hei Shan and Shilin
One books say ‘a natural, pristine forest’ and a great summer retreat from the heat. Both hotel and camping are available here especially if you have your own transport. Reccommended all season park. Hard to rate this as I’ve not been there yet.

Ao Tao Ji

30Kms (Entrance fee - unknown) A large sign as you enter Hei Shan Gou gives you some idea what is on offer here. This recently opened park is another ancient area of stone forest and unusual rock formations which appears to be poorly promoted amidst the other sites rivaling for attention. Again transport to these two parks located close together on the road between Hei Shan and Shi Lin may not be readily available and may require hiring a car with driver or self drive.

Tong Gu Tan (Copper Drum Banks)

48kms Y100 (Entrance fee for rafting) Take bus to Guan Ba also known as Xin Long Y5 takes a little less than hour. From here you can negotiate a vehicle and driver depending on the size of your group to take you the remaining 29kms over the border into Guizhou to Tong Gu Tan.
The Podu river, recently opened for ‘White’ water rafting, straddles the border of Chongqing and Guizhou. While it offers little white water it makes up for with spectacular scenery. Rafting can take from less than one hour up to 90 minutes to run down to the village of Tong Gu Tan depending on the volume and flow of the river.
Shortly after leaving Guan Ba you cross the border into Guizhou province through mostly Miao ethnic farming communities. The county side is steep and spectacular with old traditional houses amidst rice paddies and corn patches. The drive alone is worth it and you can take your time for photos and stop off with the locals.
While the river offers little in ‘white’ trills you can swim in the cool quiet stretches during hot weather and enjoy the solitude and quiet of this beautiful place, although this is spoiled a little by the nature of the debris of recent flooding still hanging in the trees well above the current water levels. But this is China.
Dress – swimsuits/shorts/thongs will suffice and take your camera etc in plastic bags. There are change rooms at both ends of the trip. The riverbank and bottom varies from smooth rocks to sandy. Take time out to swim, preferably early on where they stop for photo opportunities, as the river is cleaner here. Take care not to kick your toes on the large rocks in the water. The ‘boat man’ will want you to wear your life jacket swimming but use your own discretion here. We only wore ours in the raft just to keep him happy and stretched our trip out to three hours, stopping to swim and even playing with local kids and the only other rafting party on the river at the time.

Tips

1 Tong Gu Tan offered a discount on four entrance fees. We saved Y40 each by purchasing all three of ours here. We did not notice this offer at any other ticket office although it may be available.
2 When asking for information on how to get to places avoid asking around the bus kiosk as I have been told on all visits that there are no buses to some of these places and encouraged to take a taxi. If the locals need to get somewhere, there will be a bus you can catch with them. Locals cannot afford the taxi charges they told us we would have to pay. Keep asking until you get the right answers. Also useful to have place names written in characters so you can read them yourselves
3 All distances are from Wansheng town. Buses to Hei Shan, Shi Lin and Xin Long( Guan Ba) all leave form the ‘Kiosk’ on the main street. Fare of Y5 each way. Each destination has a sign to mark the bus departure bays. Just head down the line and you’ll get asked where you want to go.
4 Hiring a vehicle and driver. You can probably do this in Wansheng but may be easier to go to Guan Ba and negotiate there. We got a deal for day and a half that would take us to Tong Gu Tan and back, over night in simple digs in Guan Ba, early morning start to Shi Lin and the afternoon at Hei Shan, finishing in Wansheng at 6.00pm for just Y400 for three people. Without private transport and driver you spend a lot of time on buses in and out of Wansheng. This was my third visit to the area and we did more in those two days than all of the previous trips together. I can pass on details for car hire. Contact me directly if interested. Available for groups up to 7/8 with two different vehicles to choose from.
5 Remember your umbrella as it's often wet.