A tourist, an expat and a local about the best of Xi'an

What is worthwhile?

Xi'an is one of the most visited cities of China, which is no wonder with the world famous Terracotta Army just over a one hour drive away from the city center. But also within the city itself there is much to see and do. The city has been the capital of 13 dynasties and relics of this rich history can be found throughout modern-day Xi'an.
I have been living in Xi'an for almost 10 months now and have visited many of all the famous (and less famous) places of interest in and around the city. Some of them I have visited over and over again; because each time a friend or acquaintance visits there are just some things they really want to see; sometimes the main reason being that it has a 5-star rank in their travel guides. But when they leave Xi'an and I ask them what they enjoyed most, some of them indeed name these high ranking sights whilst others say they liked completely different parts and aspects of the city best.
It's also fun to talk with tourists on the downtown streets and ask them their general opinion about Xi'an City. Some people say it's one of the greatest places they have ever visited, boasting archeological splendor, fantastic heritage sites and delicious foods. Others say that Xi'an is a culmination of all China's worst aspects such as unbearable summer heat, rude and unhygienic behavior, crime, urban pollution and traffic chaos.
And what do all these abovementioned things say about Xi'an? Nothing! They just prove that there are just as many different opinions as there are people. That's why in this story three different people tell what they like best about Xi'an. Although still far from complete, it perhaps can provide the reader with a more diverse view on this ancient city. The first one is a tourist from Europe who just visited the city for 5 days. The second one is a foreigner who has lived in Xi'an for a while (yes, that would be me) and the third one is a Chinese local who currently is also studying to become a tourist guide. Their stories:

The tourist

“I got my first glances of Xi'an city while I was standing in a terribly crowded and bumpy bus, my heavy backpack between my feet and doing my best to remain standing in a somehow manageable position. Because my backpack was in danger of getting crushed by all those feet in that packed bus, I had to keep shifting my backpack whilst desperately clutching myself to the overhead handle. In spite of this difficult task, I still managed to cast a few quick glances trough the windows now and then. I got a brief moment of clear view just as we passed a section of the old fortification wall. And this solitary but huge remnant of old times, already left quite an impression on me!
I soon discovered however, that the true charm of Xi'an are neither the old buildings nor all the new post-modernist architecture with traditional Chinese touches. No; in my eyes the real appealing feature of the city are the narrow "shop and snack" alleys that can be found everywhere just behind all those brand new main road-facades [see picture] It wasn't just the inviting hustle and bustle in these streets that I appreciated; the numerous different snacks they sell are not to be missed! The shops and stalls that can be found in these little roads sell all of the common Chinese 'small foods' as well as a large variety of typical Shaanxi-delicacies. And these snacks differ according to the season. When I visited the city in the autumn, I found a mouth-watering array of special fall foods such as steamed corn, roasted chestnuts and sweet potatoes. Another specialty is a stick with all kinds of sugar-coated small fruits and tomatoes. And especially the Muslim quarter excels in delicious dried fruit (like kiwis and figs) and a huge variety of seeds and nuts. And there is even more to try in Xi'an! Like another one of my favorites: the stuffed rolls. There are baked buns that are flat and round and can be filled with all kinds of fresh and pickled vegetables and next there are small pancakes that are dipped into some spicy (or less spicy) sauce and sold with some vegetables or meat salad wrapped into them. A famous local dish which looks like a bowl of soup full of breadcrumbs has a nice homemade taste to it, just as the cold noodles and the fried potato cookies. Would you like to have something sweet again after all these savory snacks? Try the almond paste that is sprinkled with chopped peanuts, the sticks with sweet glutinous rice circles or the freshly made caramel delights. In my eyes Xi'an is China's number one snack paradise and I'd suggest everybody traveling to Xi'an to skip your meals and treat yourself to a snack party in one of Xi'an's little alleyways"

The expat

Even for Chinese understandings Xi'an is a crowded city. The streets, the traffic, the parks, the shops, the busses; people packed together everywhere. Although it certainly makes the city lively, it can sometimes get to you, especially after a busy and tiring day. Some of my favorite places to relax and find some welcome quietness are the long stretched parks that surround the city walls. Xi'an's inner city is enclosed by an ancient and beautiful city wall. Except for the northern section, this wall is completely lined by a canal and parks [see picture]. Especially in the late noon and evening these parks are relatively quiet. Leisurely walking next to the old wall along tree lined paths and the city canal always has a wholesome effect on me. After dark the parks get pleasantly busy with old people dancing and exercising and snack vendors selling their treats; everything against the backdrop of the beautifully illuminated city fortifications.
A second place I like to suggest is Xiao Zhai (小寨) nicknamed the Student City. You can find it along the road named Chang'an Lu (长安路) that stretches from the South Gate all the way to the southern outer suburbs of the city. Xiao Zhai, the Student City is the place to be for everyone young, hip and happening. If you want to see extreme haircuts, extreme fashion styles or even better; get one of those hair cuts yourself, Xiao Zhai is the right place for you. Actually, Student City is an assembly of mazelike shopping malls, all kinds of bars, restaurants, covered markets and so on. For the most extreme fashion, Baihui Market（百汇市场）is advised. Other malls sell more mainstream things. Xiao Zhai has every kind of strange shop you can imagine, from Hello Kitty Stores to Condom Markets and from nail-art studios to the Make-your-own-cake-bakery. Really a nice place to shop, eat or just (as I like to do) observe the ways of a new generation of Chinese people.
Note of warning: China is known for having the most crowded cities in the world, Xi'an is one of the most crowded cities in China and Xiao Zhai is one of the most crowded places in Xi'an. So I think you get my message...

The local

“Xi'an is an ancient place which has a very long history. Since it has been the home town of many dynasties, you can find many royal relics here. I personally really like the Xingqing Palace Park （兴庆公元）which I have visited twice so far. It's a big park a few street outside of the West Gate (西门) near which many bus lines make a stop. Entrance is free and there are many pavilions, exhibition rooms, a photographic studio, a paint gallery, a playground and more. It is a very large place, and you can easily spend a long time there. If you don't have that time, then just visit part of it. One time I was there, I took part in a real fun activity, coloring a mud boy (NiWaWa/泥娃娃), one of the special things you can do there. It took me two hours to finish it, but the result was very beautiful and I felt very proud. If you have some smaller children the amusement park rides in a separated part of the park provide a nice break.
Another thing I like about Xi'an very much are the local snacks and dishes. When I think about it, I already feel hungry. A famous one is called Yangrou paomo (羊肉泡谟) it is a baked cake diced and dipped in beef or mutton soup. Next there are many kinds of dumplings (水饺), Fan family bacon (蘩氏夹谟; sliced meat between a stove baked white flour bun) and Great Tang noodles（唐面）flavored with a layer of minced meat. Be sure to give these foods a try when you visit Xi'an. I particularly recommend the Fan family bacon. It's both delicious with a long after taste, as well as healthy since it is full of protein. So these are what I think are the best things to do and especially to eat while in Xi'an!"

What is not mentioned...

You'll find that almost all of the places mentioned in this travel review are not the ones that Xi'an is known for. Instead, this story gives you some suggestions for some different places to see, things to do and (in particular) to eat. Combining some of the abovementioned tips with the more famous places, can perhaps make your visit to Xi'an more varied and colorful. However, the coming weeks I will also post a few more detailed travel reviews about some of those well-known sights in and around Xi'an. That way I hope to provide you, the future traveler, with a complete picture of China's eternal city

To read more about Xi'an, please read my other travel review at: http://community.travelchinaguide.com/review2.asp?i=1163 Want to escape the urban frenzy of Xi'an for a day or two? Read my travel review about Huxian -a country town near Xi'an- elsewhere on this website by clicking on http://community.travelchinaguide.com/review2.asp?i=1120