A Slow Boat to China; It’s Still the Best Way to Go

A suggestion on the best way to get to the mainland

In 1945 Frank Loesser wrote the song “On a Slow Boat to China”. During that time of romantic travel, a long, slow boat trip was imagined as the best way to travel. Air travel was still a novelty for most people after all and the exotic nature of the Far East, known only by black and white photos and elegant Cheongsam silk dresses added to the mystic of the trip. Today that idea behind the song remains true. Surprisingly sometimes a boat can still be the fastest way to travel between Hong Kong and Southern China.

There are really just three sensible choices of transport between Hong Kong and South China; bus, train or boat. Car rental isn’t a true option for most people primarily due to licensing requirements and unfamiliarity with the area. Air travel like anywhere else requires long waits for the trade off of a short flight time. Choosing a car or a flight you’ll find to be more inconvenient than any choice of mass transit.

On past trips to Hong Kong and China’s Guangdong province, just north of Hong Kong I’ve sampled all three mass transit modes. My most recent trip took me to Shunde, a suburb of Guangzhou in Southwest Guangdong. The trip from Hong Kong is 80 to 110 miles depending on your destination around Guangzhou, but your level of stress can be minimal depending on transportation choice. On this trip I chose the Chu Kong ferry. The terminal is at the China Ferry Terminal off Canton Road. Easy to get to by bus, taxi or subway and an airport express station is nearby.

The cost of a two hour ride from Hong Kong to Shunde was only $24.00. By comparison, a bus or train or combination would have cost about $33.00 and if going solely by bus the trip could have taken twice the time. If going to Guangzhou by train, the time would be less, about 2 hours versus an extra 45 minutes by boat, but the cost is $45.00 and the trip less relaxing. The Chu Kong ferries, actually catamarans, provided comfortable seats and plenty of legroom for my 6’ 2” frame.

Additionally, unlike a bus or train you can buy snacks and tea and walk around to enjoy them. A nice added bonus allowing you to arrive more refreshed. The views of the glass skylines against green mountains, the bustle of the harbor and the gentle roll of the ride all contributed to relaxation. Once the harbor faded away in the distance the occasional ferries passing the other way and the numerous freighters and barges piled high with cargo presented plenty of photo opportunities.

In Shunde the immigration process was faster than I’d ever experienced. Lines were short and Customs was quick. Accessing from the dock you’ll see a waterfront of woody plants and greenery. Inside you’re greeted by bright sunlight pouring through the well-lit and spacious, 2 story entry hall inside the new harbor building. A stark contrast to teeming crowds and aging buildings that always greet me in Shenzhen or anywhere else I travel by land. Exiting in front you’ll find a well maintained courtyard parking area providing transit options to the main thoroughfares. Once outside I easily found a bus to drop me off at my hotel.

WHEN YOU GO:
Chu Kong Passenger Transport Company, Ltd.
On the web: http://www.cksp.com.hk
Email: enquiry@cksp.com.hk