<A>Hainan on Earth

Tropical Paradise

The clear blue ocean glistened in the midday sunshine, gentle waves lapped against the white, soft sand and the light breeze rustled the palm trees that line the beach.

These clichéd images of a tropical island are not what one readily associates with China. Lying stretched out on the beach on Hainan Dao I was about as far removed from how I had expected to spend my time in China, and the crowded, noisy and bustling cities that I had imagined I would experience.

As I lazily contemplated the horizon, watching boats floating quietly by and small wisps of clouds daintily breaking up the intense blue of the sky, I could hardly believe I was still in the same country.

A Unique Province

Yet, Hainan Dao, an island situated off the south coast, is indeed part of China. Until 1988 it was part of Guangdong but is now a province in its own right. Its warm climate and long stretches of clean beaches make it a popular getaway for China’s wealthy. Although it is now becoming known to foreigners and many Russians, among other nationalities, come to enjoy China’s answer to Hawaii.

I visited during the most popular time, which lasts from about December to February, and I was expecting to have to fight through hoards of other sun-worshippers in order to claim a spot on the sand. In reality though, the beaches were surprisingly empty and it was easy to find a decent patch of sand to call your own.

And so the next four days were spent blissfully, stretched out on white sand or strolling down to the shoreline for a refreshing paddle or quick swim, either on DaDongHai beach, or neighbouring Yalong Hai.

Limited tourism

At present, the resorts of Sanya remain relatively unspoilt by tourism. At Yalong Hai, in particular, the trappings of international tourism are beginning to appear. Five star hotels such as the Hilton and Marriott have built their luxury complexes that lead directly onto the beach. They are starting to mark their territory, by shutting off the beach to visitors, and making it private, only available to guests. It is not strictly adhered to, however, and western visitors not staying in these expensive hotels can easily get access to the beach, without any trouble.

Despite the hotels, the tour groups and the touts selling scuba-diving trips, they remain fairly low-key and, as yet, there are not rows and rows of high-rise hotels that have spoilt so many other resorts. It is only a matter of time though before the world becomes aware of what Hainan has to offer and so the landscape and atmosphere will be altered.

Island Travel

Travelling to and from the two beaches is straight forward as mini buses pass by every few minutes and cost 5RMB for the twenty minute journey. Taxis are also easy to come by and cost about 30RMB to make the same journey.

One day, however, I was wandering through DaDongHai main drag, searching for the bus stop to take me to Yalong Hai, when I saw two motorbikes parked by the side of the road. The drivers were stretched out across the length of the seat, their feet resting on the handle bars.

Having pondered the idea of riding one for several days, this seemed like too good an opportunity to miss. Tentatively, I approached the pair who sat up expectantly. After a short negotiation process, I climbed onto the back of one of the bikes.

Under normal circumstances, riding motorcycle taxis on the Chinese roads is not my idea of fun. Clinging for dear life as the driver weaves perilously through the vast quantities of traffic and getting asphyxiated by the plumes of exhaust fumes is uncomfortable and unpleasant; not to mention dangerous.

As with other things on Hainan, normal rules don’t apply to the roads. Traffic is relatively thin on the ground and the roads sufficiently wide and straight to make catching a motorbike not a near-death experience.

After a shaky start, gripping the hand rest with both hands and grimacing with fear as we headed out of the town centre, I quickly relaxed and began to appreciate the experience. Feeling the wind through my hair and the open road before me, again the well-worn clichés rang true, in a surprising place.

A Moving Window

The day was characteristically clear and warm; perfect, in fact for taking to the open road. The landscape changed rapidly as we rushed past. The higher buildings of the centre of town gave way to almost colonial-style detached buildings, used as houses or businesses. Then the buildings became more and more spread out and more dishevelled. People sat outside, eating, talking, enjoying the sunshine and going about their daily lives.

We passed a wide variety of vehicles as we headed along the road to Yalong Hai. Bicycles, rickshaws, lorries and cars, all sharing the same road. A coach load of Chinese tourists overtook us and all of them turned to wave, looking amused at the strange sight of a western girl riding on the back of a motorbike.

As we flew up the hill, the landscape changed again. Foliage-covered hills framed the now rural landscape. Acres of paddy fields stretched out on either side of the road. Oxen were being led by bare-footed men, ankle deep in water.

Travelling this way, with an unrestricted, almost 360 degree view, I felt like I was getting a glimpse of real life going on around me. I had a ringside seat to see what was going on, without disturbing it or having any impact on it all.

After what seemed like a moment and an eternity all in one, the buildings appeared again and we were approaching Yalong Hai. The sea glistened in the distance and the scent of salt hung in the breeze. The driver slowed down and pulled over at the side of the road.

I clambered off, smoothed down my wind-matted hair, adjusted my sunglasses and headed in the direction of the beach, to continue my horizontal ponderings on how life in China is nothing if not unique and how it is impossible to predict what you will see or what you will do next.

End.