Songpan: Pony Trekking and Emma's Cafe

Beyond Horse Trekking

Lying at the foot of the Minshan Mountains, in the northern reaches of Sichuan, is the quaint and well-preserved historic town of Songpan. Seen mostly as a stop over on the route between Chengdu and Jiuzhaigou, or as a base for horse trekking, Songpan has more to offer the traveler than initially meets the eye. Between Songpan’s tumultuous history, mix of ethnic minorities and its wide range of outdoor activities, even the most seasoned travelers should be entertained for a few days – if not more.

Although Songpan has a long and rich history among the Chinese, it has only recently become a popular stop for western travelers, largely because of its proximity to Jiuzhaigou National Park and to the southern entrance of Gansu province. One activity that has slowly become a necessity for backpackers seeking a full-fledged Sichuan experience are the pony-trekking/camping tours offered out of the downtown area.

The most popular pony-trekking tours last from one to fours days (longer if you’re feeling really brave) and have been given great reviews. Most trips should include a guide who speaks a minimal amount of English, a cook and basic camping equipment. Depending on the time of year you plan to go, you’ll want to bring warm clothes and possibly a sleeping bag; comfortable and sturdy hiking shoes are a must.

If you have your heart set on a multi-day expedition then take it from me and plan your trip wisely. Thinking it was only the beginning of October, and with the weather still being quite pleasant in Chengdu, my husband and I set off for Songpan with little more than a light jacket and a pair of jeans. For some reason we hadn’t even thought to check the weather report before we left home! When we arrived, however, we became all too aware that Songpan had skipped autumn and was feeling the effects of full-fledged winter already! Not only was it freezing cold, but it was also pouring rain and we were supposed to depart on a camping trip the next day?! That idea was scratched immediately as we realized we would be miserable to whole time: camping is no fun when you’re soggy and cold. Luckily Songpan is a charming town and has enough to offer for a few days’ time, but as you can imagine we were pretty disappointed about having to miss its main attraction simply due to our lack of planning.

A Strategic Marriage Yields New Beginnings

Songpan’s history reaches clear back to the Tang Dynasty when the Han and Tibetan nations were engaged in a ferocious battle. Peace finally found its place between these two great nations, but to cement the union princess Wencheng was married to the Tibetan king. It was at this time, over twenty-three centuries ago, that the first township was established in the Songpan area, with the new king and queen presiding over this strategic location.

It wasn’t until the Ming Dynasty, however, that Songpan expanded into its current boundaries and underwent a major facelift. Emperor Jiajing, of the Ming Dynasty, saw to the major task of erecting a wall, which to this day, encircles the heart of the town. With the Minjiang River flowing past its front gates, Songpan’s ancient wall is the largest of its kind in China.

In building the wall, Emperor Jiajing entrusted a general to oversee this massive project. Each brick weighed a hefty thirty kilograms, and had been mixed with water in which glutinous rice (sticky rice) had been cooked. The construction lasted five years and resulted in a strategically placed wall, atop which were placed weapons of defense needed to guard the city.

Fortune Backfires on the Town

During the Republican period, from 1912 to 1949, gold was discovered in the hills around Songpan. To cash in on the fortune to be had, the Zhangla Goldmine was constructed by the Kuomintang. Rumor has it that just as the KMT was finally fleeing the area, they overloaded their plane with so much gold that it crashed into the mountainside, at which point all the gold was scattered back to the earth. Prospectors are still known to try their luck in the nearby hills.

Tragedy struck the town yet again during the anti-Japanese war (1937-1945) when Japanese bombers missed their target of the gold mine and struck the town instead. Today there’s nothing in the town’s appearance that conveys this tragic past; the town itself is in good condition and is set to undergo more restorations in the near future as well.

Ethnic Groups

While Songpan lies within the Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, there is a visible Hui population in the community as well. Not only will Songpan appeal to the history buff in you, but if you’re interested in ethnic minorities then it’s a destination you will surely not want to miss. A major trading junction for the Tibetan, Qiang and Hui ethnic groups of Sichuan, Gansu and Qinghai; Songpan abounds in colorful ethnic garb. Be sure to leave extra space in your luggage because you’re not likely to leave this stop empty handed. (My husband can vouch for this first hand, as I dragged him around the markets for two days due to the poor weather! It’s truly a shopper’s paradise if ethnic minority artwork and clothing is your forte.)

One of the first things you’ll realize when you enter the town is that, contrary to what many people think, it is not only Tibetans who are populous in Songpan. Aside from the eminent Han presence, the Qiang minority dominates the local population as well. These men and women are unmistakable in appearance with their simple black gowns of silk, cotton and gunny cloth, which are paired with sleeveless sheep’s wool jackets. The women adorn silver jewelry and lace collars with beautiful silver ornaments. Their shoes are decorated with the embroidered designs for which they are renowned.

Historically, “Qiang” was the name given by the Han to the nomadic people inhabiting the western region of China. It wasn’t until the Han Dynasty (206 BC to AD 200) that an administrative region was created in the area. However, the Qiang weren’t formally recognized as a distinct group until the Tibetans reigned in the region, from AD 600 through AD 900. At this time a number of Qiang were assimilated into the Tibetan and Han societies, while a segment stayed nomadic and distinctively separate from their neighbors. The descendants of these early nomads comprise what is today known as the Qiang ethnic minority. They have no written language of their own, and due to their close historical contact with the Han, many of them speak Mandarin along with their tradition language of Qiang.

Like the Tibetans, the Qiang have been valued as great horsemen for generations. For centuries they have bartered and done business with the Hans by producing medicinal herbs, horses and other natural products for farming tools and other daily necessities. Their range of medicinal herbs and natural products encompasses a huge variety of ingredients, most of which are quite visible (delighting some tourists and horrifying others!) in the windows of their shops. It’s not unusual to see caterpillar fungus, various antlers and bears’ gallbladders on display. Also seen are various hides, for which I’m not sure what purpose they serve, but they are prominent nonetheless. While the westerner in me cringes every time I see one of these animal products, it’s important to remember that these medicinal products have been passed down through the generations for centuries, and any harm done isn’t done so with malice but through ignorance.

Not to be Missed

While Songpan isn’t overflowing with activities or sites to see, it does hold enough interest for a few days’ time and has been known to captivate travelers for longer then they had anticipated. Simply strolling through the old town should keep you entertained or a few days, but there are a couple of ‘must sees’ that I feel should be on the top of anyone’s list while in town.

The first one is horse trekking. Sadly, as I already said, I wasn’t able to make it into the grasslands for this experience. From talking to fellow travelers, though, I have gathered
that the most popular options are the two to three day excursions, which take you through the Muni Valley. At the entrance of the valley lays the Chaggar Monastery, which is said to be the sole active place of worship for the Gelukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism in the Songpan region.

Other interesting itineraries that are offered are the longer excursions to Huanglong National Park and Xuebaoding Mountain. Both of these options would be best suited for late spring, summer or early autumn weather, as it does get very chilly at this high altitude! (Come prepared with warm thermals or else you’ll wind up like me: scouring the shops like a mad woman in hopes of finding a pair that are long enough to cover your calves! Not an easy task indeed!)

Lastly, no review on Songpan should be without a much deserved recommendation to Emma’s Café. Emma’s is situated about a block up from the main statue (the north entrance of the gate.) Along with a cozy atmosphere, internet connection, a CD burning service, and a menu encompassing a wide range of Chinese and western food, Emma’s staff is extremely helpful when it comes to hostel recommendations, tour information and any other questions you might have. Another perk is their book exchange: any two books can be traded for one of theirs. Emma’s should be able to assist you in making our connecting journey to Gansu, Jiuzhaigou, Huanglong or Chengdu, all while you sit back sipping your much deserved green tea or coffee after a long three day’s horse trek through some of China’s most amazing scenery. Enjoy!

Travel Infomation

Getting There
•From Chengdu: There are three buses a day, from the Northwestern bus station (Chadianzi.) Eight Hours

•From Jiuzhaigou there are three buses a day. two to three hours

•From Huanglong yo will need to hire a taxi. One and a half to two hours, depending on the weather conditons. (About 220 yuan, subject to bargaining skills.) =)

Hotels and Hostels: There are a number of budget guesthouses, ranging from adequate to quite nice. One thing most are lacking is thick blankets. If you’re carrying a sleeping bag it will come in handy here. There are simply too many guesthouses to list, so your best option is to show up and ask 'Emma' what she recommends. A fair price for a budget room should run Y50 per person, anything more and the owner is pushing it. Our first night was spent in a room with an outside bathroom and a shower that was not only across the street but was in someone else's home! We soon realized that we’d been 'had' (we’d paid Y100 for the two of us), quickly got our money back and switched rooms. We were able to get much better accommodation up the road at half the price. So, the moral of my story is this: be wise and do your home work. Shop around a bit before you settle on a room because they do vary considerably.