Thailand

Full moon party

I will start this with an image.
Standing atop a building, looking at the sea, I look down and find, 10,000 people just like me. Canadains, European, English and Aussie, Spanish, American, and a shitload of Israiles. The beat of the beach is a sound unheard, 1000s of cultures dancing ubsurd. Not a frown in the crown, not a quarall to be seen. Everyones happy, nobodys mean.
That is a small explination of the full moon party on Kho Phangang Island, Thailand. I cant explain, but its incredible. After that party I needed a couple days rest. I headed back up to Bangkok. I decided it was time to go up north, Chaing Mai. Our first day we booked a junlge trek, these treks can be a bit dodgy but we lucked out and for around 50 doallers got all our meals free, two nights in the jungle, White water rafting and elephant riding. We hiked for 3 hours up hill, not easy whatsoever, deep into the jungle, once we reached the top, in the middle of no where, a hill tribe overlooked the valley. Imagine the feeling of walking into this tribe, foreingers have visited here before, but this was my first time to experince anything like this. We ate maggots and saw a tranchala, had a fire, and got a glimpse of how people live their lives. A certain tribe all have black teeth, it is said that the blacker the teeth, the more beautiful the women, kinda different

Loas

Welcome to Loas,

One of the greenest places I have ever been. Loas is a small country landlocked in between Thailand,Cambodia, Vietnam, and China. This country has been bombed more then any other country in the world. There is no chance you could notice. Roads in this country are made up of, lakes, rivers, mud, and on occasion, gravel. The roads climb up into the country side, above the clouds and beyond. Everytime the bus ( made for 40 people but packed with 60 people two goats, 15 motorcycles, and 25 bags of rice) children from small little tribes run towards the bus shouting and waving (with happy faces). After spending a few days at a small village with electricty from afternoon to maybe 11, I headed down south. I am now staying in a very relaxed city. It is so relaxed that at the main street market, filled with all sorts of items, you can have a conversation in a whisper. at 6:00 am everymorning around 100-200 monks, wearing there orange robe, walk through the streets as people give them offerings of rice and other foods. A few Km away from the city a 50 Meter cascading waterfall decends into a bunch of turquise color pools. Loas is a laid back jungle country with outstanding temples, caves, waterfalls and rivers. Not to mention cheap. Hear you can buy a large cooked chicken breast, and an all you can eat vegge buffet for 1.24$ or a pack of ciggies for .24 cents.

Loas 2

A tourist city. What would you imagine?
Heres what you get. A mix of good and bad. There I was, in midst of the most beautiful valley around. Towering limestone cliffs rise up in all directions. A picture perfect river amazing for rope swings, cliff jumps, and small rapids enough to make it fun. Around every corner are "happy men" with there long bamboo sticks pulling you in to get a cold brusky. Around this city there are caves with Ice blue water running out of them. Allowing you to swim inside and uncover the unseen. Stalagmite and stalagcite intertwine to make the most bizzare creations.

Then there is the lazy tourist.

This town is made up of one main road that is jammed with restraunts playing Friends ALL DAY LONG. Any movie you could imagine is playing in restraunts where there are no seats. Only large?pillows filled day and night with red eyed travelers.

If you dare venture down the well paved road to the capital city you must get past lonley men walking the one road with every gun you could imagine. Pistols, AK-47, Rifle, Ive even heard stories of men carrying rocket launchers. Seems a little strange? Stranger yet is that nobody knows who these people are, or why they carry guns.

I came back to realitly in the big city full of cars, traffic lights, prostitutes, and of course, party events. In Laos it seems that a "dressing up fancy" event only happens at the bowling alleys. They sure do like they're bowling. Im off to the 4000 Islands. The mekong splits into a huge network of narrow creeks.

A secret knowen to few people about these islands.

I met a man in my guest house, just had a few words with him before he seemed to dissapear. He was in a hurry to leave, I dont know why. He told me about one island though, differnt from all of the rest. Somthing at this island is unbelivable, incredible, and holds somthing so precious words cant explain it. The last thing this man said to me was, talk to Pooanta, at the big rock.

Finishing Loas

The 4,000 Islands

In this season the mighty chocolate brown MEKONG RIVER was high and was hiding secrets while also uncovering new ones. With the river so high there were new narrow creeks you could navagate through to uncover lost tribes that have never seen other people before.

A village I found that was quite different from all the rest.

As we approached this village I noticed that around this area all the bigger bamboo trees were turning into palm trees, and most of the palm trees had coconuts, and you wouldnt beleive the things people can do with coconuts here. We got into the village and 10 kids came running towards us............PENS, PENS, PENS, it was obvious that foriegners had visted this village before but It was still amazing to see these kids speaking English.

I also saw South East Asias biggest waterfall! Stretching over 1 Km long and 15 Meters high this monster has a big role in the history of the world. With over 100 differnt waterfalls plumeting downwards ontop of eachother there is no way to describe each one. They had Gekos on this island ( Which are everywhere) but here they were as big as cats and wild dolphins that would skim the surface of the milky brown water when getting air.

My Visa finished for this wonderful country and I want to take a second to note, Laos is an amazing country and its starting to change already. I recommend you get here very soon, before its to late.

I left this wonderful place to Thailand, from a place with no cars and no electricty most of the time I went to a huge club with live dancers and flashly lights. It was almost all to much. This new city in Thailand is not at all for tourists. It caters for Thai people only. Since ive been here ive seen some absoulute bizzare things. For example, lastnight, as I stand on the road an elephant passes by, he swings a hollahoop on his trunk, takes a bow, and passes the coin i give to him to his trainer. Before this, on a differnt day I saw a long line of people, all holding a rope, walking down the street at the end of the rope was a truck. The truck was playing loud sorrowful music. The back of the truck was a coffin, in the coffin......Im sure you can imagine. This is a funeral ritual. Everyone walks to the temple like this.

Cambodia

Cambodia. All my previous memories of this third world country were not good. I decided that before I entered I would still have an open mind. In the end it paid off enormously. The boarder was still the hell I previously knew. This time instead of basking in its emense poverty I handed out some bananas, got my stamp into the country, and was in an air-con taxi off on one of the worst highways in Asia.
We arrived at a reccomended guest house, dumped our bags and hit the sack. The following day would be somthing to remember.
My sister and her companions where off to see the amazing Angkor wat so it gave me the day to do whatever I want. To tell you the truth there isint much else to do in this poverty ridden city. I talked to the manager of my guesthouse and he offered me a trip with him to drink with the locals. My previous experince scared me half way to zimbobway. ( Drinking with two Khmer Rouge ( Police officers who commited some of the worst acts of genocide known to man) isint the best thing to do when you first enter a country).
Anyways I thought what the hell and went anyways.
Me and 4 others sat on a terrese overlooking the surronding grass fields. Its quite beautiful this season as all rice paddys are flourishing a mango green. They poured me a shot of some dark liquid, lifted there glass and shouted ( GURE MOI!) Which I think translates into (DRINK ONE!) And one after another after another...........after another, we drank. I was quite gratefull for what came next as it was somewhat of a surprise.
While we were drinking I failed to notice a women chopping some meat off a bone behind me. The fruity carmel tasting whisky was just starting to give me a buzz when 5 plates of meat where dropped in our circle.
蟭's dog" explained one of the men
"You eat."
Of course when you think of eating dog your stomach would turn but I decided to let the meat enter my mouth with no thought. I can honestly say it was tasty. The meat was very tender and I can say resembled somthing like mixing pork, beef, and chicken all into one. Probably becuase that was what the dog was eating all its life. When I asked what kind of dog it was the man replied with his finger. He pointed to some stray dog wondering across the road.
Not to bad, I muttered more to myself more then anyone else and continued stuffing my face.
It was a good time with the men and once I got back to the guest house it was time to hit a Cambodian disco.

When we first walked in I thought it wasnt to bad but time pushes forward and traditional ways in cambodian discos does not. The DJ was playing some trance music when suddenly everything stopped and some annoying high pitched corney music started. Everyone went into circular formation and going in a clockwise direction. The hand movements are hard to describe but it looked somthing like miming a small box infront of you. (if that makes any sense) Anyways I was totally blown away by it all and when they started doing some sort of folk dance I decided to leave.

The next day we went off to some far away forgotten temple. One of the greatest things about it is that you werent burdend by the thousands of tourists that go to angkor every day. This temple had been left to the jungle and the jungle has it ways of destroying things. What used to be a large magnificent temple was now half the size. Huge stone blocks scribed with intricate paintings lying everywhere. It reminded me somewhat of a playpark jumping from rock to rock and swinging from vine to vine. Roots protruded through the walls like a knife through butter. The detail of everything was incredible. 1000 years of weathering, war , and imense jungle growth; this temple is still somthing everyone should witness.

After all this my sister and I decided it was time to go to the capital city. For me this is when the pain really set in.
I have explained in previous emails the horror that took place in cambodia from 1975 to 1979 and honestly I dont care to do it again for each time I think about it tears come to my eyes. People deserve to know that such a horrible genocide could take place without anyone knowing about it. In school most of us are taught about the hollocaust but many people have reffered to this as much worse. Some have said over three million people were killed. This was not a gas chamber type of killing. This was brutal torture to all. Especailly to people who had any type of status. Wheather you were, a teacher, doctor, army officer, even if you wore glasses you were killed. No crying was allowed at these camps. People were forced to kill not only their own people but also their own familes. I remember staring in disbelief at the rules posted at this old school, turned into detension camp. The stories were horrific, the photos were disgusting, but what got to me most was the skulls. Thousands of them piled ten stories high. Each one with a face of complete terror. Men, women, children, no one was spared.
Although I could see no cause, I saw the effect. Beggers go where tourists go and to see the children with no legs, the men with melted faces, the starving babies in their mothers arms. It hurts to remember.
Out of all this the one thing that keeps me going is the smiles. While travelling to all these places the children shout with huge smiles. The drivers are friendly with tons of enthusiam. The guest house owners are always helpful and in the end you feel that in some small way, you are doing somthing to help these people who never give up.

Vietnam

Good bye Cambodia
Our journey started in a hired taxi. The 3-hour trip into the countryside would be long. A new boarder had opened and my sister and I were anxious to get off the beaten track. As we walked out of our hotel we had to laugh as 4 girls piled into the back seat of a taxi waiting at the lobby. We had to stop laughing when we realized that we were also to get in there, along with another women with lice.
2 hours into the journey the road stopped and a path started. We followed this path through numerous villages that had nothing. No power, no restaurants, they did have clothing shops though. People would come out of their straw shack to gawk at the ghostly faces. Blown away by freckles and curly hair all the people of the jungle would say, 揼akablakawhishywoo? (I抦 sure this meant, wow what a handsome man and beautiful women) We succeeded in arriving at the Vietnam boarder.?They let us past in Cambodia and we were welcomed into Vietnam with a horrendous storm. As raindrops the size of golf balls pelted us we ran with a police officer to the nearest shelter. After the longest boarder crossing ever, including two men with guns, one prisoner, and a lot of misunderstandings we finally were allowed to leave.

Vietnam
Well the first thing I noticed was they had a port a potty. Ahh, back to civilization. By now it was dark, myself and three other girls were exhausted and ready to give our last bits of energy to walk two thousand meters to the city.?Once we got out of customs 6 men on motorbikes started their engines and were determined to get our business. Now me, being that man, had all the responsibility of bargaining with these guys. They couldn抰 speak English but with a little bit of this and a little bit of that we still got ripped off.?Coming into a new city is hard in the dark, coming into a new country in the dark is, well, kinda stupid. The lights shone in Vietnam and I felt relieved to be in a somewhat sophisticated country. It was interesting to see all the shops, especially all the ones with toys and stuffed animals.*
We were dropped off in a small city in the middle the mighty Mekong Delta.

Mekong
This Mekong River is amazing. It passes through 4 countries, is full of resources, and one of the largest rives in the world. At one point the river is over 3km wide.
In the Delta the river transcends into thousands of small islands. There are small canals, floating markets, and people bathing everywhere. You wouldn抰 believe all the things the people use this river for.

The toilet,
We stopped at a small village and decided we would live like the locals and stay with a family for the night. They feed you, give you a bed, and bathe with you if you want. In the middle of a small island you can抰 expect much. When going to the toilet I usually expect a squat toilet or a hole somewhere but this was a little different. I asked where the toilet was with toilet paper in my hand so I didn抰 have to do any obscene gestures. I was a little bit surprised when the father pointed to a small pond behind the house. Walking to the pond I walked across a small board and entered into what looked like a bunker. There was a hole that went directly into the pond (about a 5 foot drop) and with the basket of newspaper in the corner I knew I was in the right place. I took off my pants, got into squat position and if I weren抰 about to shit I probably would have anyways. When my first dropping hit the water the hole pond started to erupt. Thousands of fish fought for whatever they could get. Complete mayhem everywhere until I was finished.
Guess what we had for dinner that night, that抯 right, fish!
We relaxed for a day, went to another city and hit an amazing water park then went off to Ho Chi Minh City with a little bit of an upset stomach.

Ho Chi Minh
North, East, South, West,
Motorbikes everywhere, the driver knows best.
Turn left, swerve right, the horns are non-stop
Traffic comes from all angles, where are the cops?
When crossing the road just close your eyes,
If you抮e lucky you'll get by.
People are smiling, markets are bustling,
Parks are packed with people playing.
A country itself, Saigon it was called,
Make sure you come here before you are balled!
The streets of Ho Chi Minh City where once described to me as 憃rganized chaos? isn抰 that the proper oxymoron. To jump on a motorbike is to risk your life, or so it seems. The drivers are used to it and only laugh as you scream. Everyone recommends a cruise around the city, and a talk with a driver can be just as interesting. On a recent night out I got to talk with one of the men. For any Americans who fear Vietnam, fear not Ho Chi Minh City. During the Vietnam War it was the Americans who helped these people fight against their rivals (The north of Vietnam). American flags are worn by many locals and they will always remember the people who gave them a house and food when they needed it.

Culture
Vietnam is still a very traditional place. It抯 common to see the women wearing those triangle hats and wearing what looks to be pajamas. Street food is terrific and will usually include a pork chop, rice, soup, cucumber and tomato, something weird and water for about 60 cents. All though dating is common it is usually accompanied by marrige. Discos are full of men dancing with men since women don抰 really go to diskos. Women don抰 smoke, drink, or swear either.
***
I mentioned before seeing the shops with stuffed animals and toys in it. There are thoasands of these shops, one on almost every street. There are carnivals in every city I go to. There are tons of small rides with small children laughing everywhere. Every city also has at least one water park for children. I抳e gotten used to cute, quiet children all around other countries in Asia. I never heard them cry and these kids have it the worst.?However, Vietnam is something different. The kids are visibly spoiled. They cry, scream, and stomp there feet. Reminds me a lot of western kids. Maybe letting your kid run around in bare feet, not giving them everything they want, and showing them that yelling wont help you is something we can work on teaching our kids.
Nha Trang
Something I really love about Vietnam. While in tourist places there are just as many Vietamense people as Westeners. Hawkers tend to bug everyone. There aren抰 that many Hawkers in Vietnam but its good to pick up some ways to get rid of them. Now I am staying at a party place. People say they come here to relax but there is no way out of it. The beach is beautiful, the bars are cheap, and beautiful babes bask on the beach. How can you say no to a night out?

Vietnam to China

Dissecting Ho Chi Minh
Our journey continued up the coast of Vietnam. From 1965 to 1979 Vietnam separated and began a brutal civil war. Uncle Ho, or Ho Chi Minh was all about communism. His plan was to separate the country and then reunite in the ever so wonderful life of communism. He did some great things in his time but this wasnt his best idea. Later in my journey I was to meet him. He is one of the few great men (Stalin and Lennon included) who had the privilege of being embalmed and put on display. Surrounded by huge marble walls, eight guards, and at least 3 inch thick glass he was quite a site. He looked like one of those frogs you dissect in science class. Picture taking, whispering, hands in the pockets, and walking with a limp is strictly prohibited. Every two months the museum is closed. Uncle Ho takes the journey to Russia to visit old friends and get repaired.

Vietnam - Two countries?
When the country separated the people separated. Our next city was proof. The people began to be much more aggressive. They weren抰 so open minded. Also we began to be charged an OUTRAGOUS American dollar for noodles. The ripping off of foreigners was in practice much more in the north. We had gotten used to the typical stares of the Asians but up north it seemed the people gawked. As if to say, what the hell is that??The famous highway named Route 9 is the division point. There is a Demilertized zone stretching about 10 Km. Supposivily there was to no fighting in this area. Near here is an amazing network of tunnels.

Tucking in tunnels
We went to visit the famous underground tunnels. These tunnels were amazing. The deepest tunnel was 27 meters. They continued underground in different directions for miles. They were used for transporting goods and weapons, housing families, and even delivering babies. 12 children were born in the 5 years families lived underground. The tunnels started from the ocean and continued all the way to the Ho Chi Minh trail. (With the expansion of tourism the government has decided to turn the old hidden trail into a highway.) Now you can feel just like a real soldier!

Hanoi
After a long journey we arrived in the countries capital. Hanoi is smaller the Saigon but just as intense. The city boats a huge green lake, many colonial buildings, and a magical traffic system that seems to work. (As long as you follow the rules)
RULES OF THE ROAD
1. First rule of the road - nobody shall talk about the rules of the road.
2. Second rule of the road ?there are no rules!
When ever an accident happens the only way to solve it is to get out of your vehicle, square off with the person who you had an accident with, scream, jump and point various ways, then get back in your vehicle and go on your way. Who needs insurance or lawyers?

Castles for the Gods
Blasting out of the sea like magma out of a volcano Halong bay has some of the most amazing karst formations in world. Grey castles of all sizes surround you. Engulfed by green shrubs these amazing formations are straight from a fantasy. Greenish water makes a strong base yet over millions of years it slowly erodes the mountains. Caves in these mountains boast some of the most amazing formations Ive ever seen. Slowly this world heritage site is being overrun by tourism and pollution. This is a site that should be seen by all.

To my new life
My sister and I separated at the end of Halong bay. We had some amazing experiences and I will never forget it. She is a strong woman and will live a very interesting life. All the best to you Chels!
I set off for China. Ive been waiting years to penetrate this amazing country and I had no clue what lies beyond the walls. I armed myself with 1$, a piece of a bread, my backpack and a guide book. I could feel the energy brewing inside of me as I pulled up to the train station. 10 hours from now I will be crossing the boarder. I stepped into the train station just to see my train leave! I was even early! I jumped on a motorcycle and raced to the next train station. After a 20 minute ride I still had time to catch the train. The man demanded 5 $ for the ride. I tried to gently explain that I didnt have any change or Vietnam currency. With a big huff and puff he took my dollar (and my bread) and left me at the station. So there I was, no food, no water, and no money. The train ride was 13 hours in 3rd class on a hard seat. What a way to start my new life.

The train ride turned out ok. Locals fed me fruit and a nice woman bought me some water. The power of a smile and a polite hello will go very far in any country. Everybody you come across has something to show you, take the time to relax and find out what it is. Throughout my travels I have been helped by hundreds, taught by thousands, and changed by millions. Jump on the ride of life and enjoy it!

I arrived at the boarder and was greeted by a salute from a Chinese soldier. Knee how? he said.
knee how?I replied, completely overridden by a thousand emotions.
Off I went to the land of the future.