<A> The JOURNEY to JIUZHAIGOU

The mighty Minjiang

What's in a journey that makes it so memerable? It's the people, the places and the many experiences that colour each journey we take.

This journey began with the night train to Chengdu, where we were met on arrival by my young friend’s father. After a quick breakfast we left Chengdu in the family car traveling via Dujiangyan and Qingcheng Shan. The road this far at least was a highway in very good condition but I had heard rumors that the road to Juizhaigou was one of those you’d sooner avoid but there are also few alternatives. As is often the case there is an element of truth in a rumor and this was to be no exception.

Dujiangyan, is the site of an ancient flood control and irrigation system built around 2000 years ago on the Min Jiang, a major tributary of the Yangtze and today it continues to tame the flow of water over the Sichuan basin just as it was designed to do all those years ago. It’s a magnificent piece of engineering to be proud of to this day. The road to Juizhaigou follows the Min river valley north to its watershed and is very much a work in progress. Just north of Qingcheng Shan the road quickly deteriorated around the construction site of a new dam and a new road was also under construction above the expected new water level of the river. From here on roadwork and detours were the order of the day.

The Min winds its way north through a narrow valley of steep, barren, and often sheer sided mountains. On these lower reaches gravel quarrying from the steep slopes and coal mining appeared to be the major primary industries. High on the mountains we could sometimes see small patches of cultivated land and the occasional herd of goats. Dams supplying hydropower to the small towns and villages along the valley regularly interrupted the rapid and often turbulent flow of water down the river.

Panda land

Our friends had generously offered us a visit to the Wolong Panda Reserve, which would also give us a chance to spread what is normally a long bus ride over two days. Just before we arrived at Wolong we were met by other members of the family and some county officials and drove the remaining distance up the beautiful valley deep into the reserve. Bamboo, naturally is growing profusely amongst a variety of other vegetation on the more gentle slopes of this lush valley. I had already been to the Panda Breeding Research Centre in Chengdu and spent ages watching several young pairs frolicking over breakfast in the early morning drizzle but here we would have a closer encounter in surroundings similar to their natural habitat.

While it is rare to see a panda in the wild today it is also a rare treat to get up close to one of these huge 'tuxedo' clad lads while he’s having a feed. We were the only visitors in the reserve that afternoon and enjoyed a brief but incredible experience as he turned his head to look us directly in the eye, all the while munching on the juicy bamboo shoots he was obviously enjoying.

Another surprise

After a wonderful farm style lunch near the reserve we continued north to the county seat of Wenchuan where we would spend the evening. On the outskirts of town we stopped to wash the car, which of course had taken a few mud baths on the way here. Imagine our surprise while standing idly on the roadside above the river when our attention was caught by another very familiar but also very rare sighting in China. Take a look at the photo and see what you think of this ‘Koala’ etched in the hillside above us. Way out of his natural habitat with not a gum tree in sight.

On the road again

Next morning we left out pleasant riverside hotel, and after breakfast with our hosts were seen off at the bus station for Juizhaigou at about 9.00am. The scenery at first continued much the same as the day before. The road from here on was under going reconstruction for almost the entire length and we spent the best part of the day rally driving around mounds of gravel and potholes from one side of the road to the other. The scenery all the while was very spectacular and interesting as we passed through small towns and minority villages surrounded by very productive farmland and orchards where ever there was any level ground. The further north we got the smaller the river became and the smaller the mountains appeared as we also climb in altitude.

Eventually the river became nothing more than a creek and the towns gave way to small Tibetan villages at intervals along the road. These rural villages flanked the road so closely and the road was often used for many other purposes - overflowing markets, mechanical repairs, storage space and drying crops, just to name a few thus reducing progress to a crawl. Prosperity was evident in the many new but traditional timber homes under construction still employing time-honoured skills. By mid afternoon we had arrived in Songpan and somewhere near the headwaters of the mighty Min.

Songpan is a colourful town with a city wall and city gates undergoing renovations. Many of the timber buildings are painted in bright primary colours in the Tibetan style giving it a somewhat carnival atmosphere. You can also break your trip here and try some horse trekking in the surrounding mountains.

Liquid Jade

From here the road is wonderful. Since the opening of the new airport, just a few kilometers from town, the road to both Huonglong and Juizhaigou have been upgraded. We arrived in Jiuzhaigou about five o’clock and were met by a friend of our friends and shown to our hotel just by the entrance gate to the park. It was late June and the temperature was cool but pleasant and we were looking forward to spending a couple of days in this much-lauded park enjoying the fresh air and star filled skies and listening to the sounds of nature if that is indeed possible in China.

Early next morning from our hotel room window we could see a steady stream of tour buses arriving at the entrance so this spurred us to get out there early too. Besides we needed to find an ATM machine, something that Wenchuan as yet did not have. We eventually got some cash out which of course you will need quite a lot of if you spend much time here. We then proceeded to the ticket gate and here we discovered a few useful things.
· If you’re a senior citizen of any country you are entitled to free entry.
· If you enter the park a second day you can get two for the price of one. So come with a friend or find one.
· On your second day you will receive a gift (Photographic presentation of the park)
· You should also buy a bus pass to take you around the park

Jiuzhaigou does indeed live up to its reputation as one of the most beautiful places in China. Unfortunately the word is out and the sheer volume of visitors now governs the extent of freedom one can enjoy in exploring the park. There is no private transport allowed unless you are a local. A beautiful boardwalk has been built the entire length of both valleys to help lessen the impact of pedestrian traffic on the vegetation and streams. While it takes a little forward planning it is possible to plan your day/s to see most of the sights and still avoid the crowds.

A bus service shuttles tourists around the park and one can get on and off wherever there is a designated stop. If you’ve got the energy it’s also possible to walk the entire park although the best option would be to take the bus to the head of each valley and walk back out. Apart from the Five Coloured lake and Long lake at the head of the western valley, the eastern valley is far more interesting and beautiful and should be given the most time to explore including the portion below Nuorilang.

The Nuorilang Commercial Center at the junction of the two valleys is where you’ll find the only places to eat and the souvenir market where you might pick up some good bargains all conveniently under one roof. You might want to take a packed lunch as this place offers a very overpriced canteen buffet or A la Carte menu for equally outrageous prices.

Some of the nine small Tibetan villages that give the valley its name still offer some insight into village life, along with souvenirs but they are no longer able to host overnight visitors. The highlights of the park include the many lakes of different colours and size, the beautiful alpine scenery, a variety of waterfalls and the flora and fauna. I was most impressed by the variety of flowering plants and wildflowers especially on the lower reaches around the swampy creeks and of course the depth of colours in most of the lakes.

Jiuzhaigou is a place that ideally should be visited through the seasons to appreciate all it has to offer. One day in one season does not really do it justice and those who are privileged to live there no doubt enjoy its beauty while also enduring its hardships.

No more hardships

No more hardships for us now with the highest altitude airport in China built to service both Huonglong (52kms) and Jiuzhaigou (86kms). There is a shuttle bus service to and from each of these parks and flights to most major centers during the summer months. From Chengdu a mere 40 minutes in the air will set you back Y700. This would have to be one of the most expensive flights I’ve taken.

Despite the bus trip sometimes being an horrendous journey it really is no worse than many other epic journeys around the nation. It would have to be one of my favourite journeys and I have no doubt I will do it again one day.

Wolong Panda Museum

This is located a few hundred meters up the valley from the entrance to the reserve and is well worth a visit to see the local flora and fauna interpretive display and an explanation of the Pandas history and lifestyle.