<A> Tiger Leaping Gorge

First Impressions

Dozing in my seat for the first hour of the journey, I awoke to find that we were winding our way high up into the hills, twisting and turning along the roads that had been cut into the slopes, and passing some spectacular scenery. It was approaching late afternoon, so the distant fields and hills were bathed in a golden glow, and the height at which we were travelling enabled us to see for miles into the distance, making it the most impressive wake-up call I have ever had. Just this journey alone, despite the slightly perilous moments when I feared the coach would slip off the road altogether and fall down the several hundred feet drop, was enough to convince me that Yunnan did indeed deserve it's reputation as the most beautiful province in China.

My first hoilday came only a month after I had started work, as a teacher, in Chongqing, so I had not spent a great deal of time planning how I was going to spend the seven days, preoccupied as I was with settling into my new home. Arriving in Yunnan, therefore, I only had the vaguest idea of what it would be like and what there was to see.

The First Few Days

With only seven days, the itinerary was tight, but we wanted to see as much as possible in order to get a brief overview of the region, figuring we could return to a place at a later date if we felt it deserved more exploring. With speed in mind, we decided to throw budget restrictions to the wind, and fly to Kunming, which took only one hour, compared to the 22 hour journey had we caught the train. The holiday coincided with the October National Day celebration and, this being our first trip away, we were unprepared for the mass exodus from Chongqing at the start of the holiday, on the Friday evening, which meant we spent several frantic hours trying to get to the airport, instead of the usual hour.

Having arrived in Yunnan, however, we quickly put the stressful start of the trip behind us and instead embraced the noticeably cleaner air and clearer skies of Kunming. Thus, we spent two throughly pleasant days in the city, and twenty-four slightly less pleasant hours in tourism infested Dali, before taking the four hour bus ride to Lijiang.

We had decided early on to avoid an organised tour as we preferred not to be tied down to a fixed timetable and, of which the experience of Dali further convinced us, in our experience, we met far more interesting and friendly people when we travelled the way the Chinese did and used local transport. Although this method of travel required more organisation, it was always worth it.

Lijiang

In Lijiang, we were lucky enough to be staying in a small family run hostel where guests, or at least we, were taken under their wing. Thus, when we expressed an interest in making a day trip to the gorge, no sooner had we said the words, then the grandmother of the family was ringing roung local minibus companies to get the best price. Her petite frame was deceptive and there was something in her eyes which said, "Mess with me, if you dare!" She clearly ruled the roost in her family, but also further afield, with local people, also in the tourist trade.

On the telephone, she seemed to drive a hard bargain, claiming to be getting the best price for us, although, doubtless, she was also negotiating her cut. Nonetheless, we were more than happy to pay 200RMB between the five of us, which got us a day's minibus, complete with driver. It was much better value than any larger organised tour bus and, as it turned out, much more fun. We also had the advantage of being able to stop when and where we liked along the way.

The Journey to the Gorge

The driver appeared at the courtyard of the hostel just after 8am the following morning. After a brief conversation with the grandmother, to whom he kowtowed sufficiently, she cheerfully shooed us all on our way. Once out onto the street, the driver straightened up and smiled at us, glad to be able to assert himself again. Telling us to stand on the corner of the street, he signalled that he would drive his taxi round to pick us up. FIve minutes later he reappeared, this time at the wheel of one of the many mini vans that drive around Lijiang. With sliding doors, these vehicles sit five people fairly comfortably, although the taller members of the group had to fold themselves up to fit in, and there was plenty of floor space for various rucksacks and carryalls that we had brought with us.

We left just as the mist was rising, gradually revealing to us the mountains that surrounded the city and that stretched on, it seemed, indefinately. Once out of the city limits, the landscape became rural very quickly. Lush and green. We started to climb, higher and higher. There was some traffic around and the driver weaved in and out, only just missing oncoming vehicles on several occasions, in the erratic manner that only Chinese drivers seem capable of.

Evenutally, near the summit of one range, we pulled over into a lay-by so that we could take in the view. I stepped out of the back of the bus and took a deep breath, as I had done on several occasions since arriving in Yunnan. After the dirt, pollution and smog of Chongqing, the crisp, fresh air was a welcome relief. The temperature was cooler too, and although it was warm, it lacked the stifling heat of the city that has become my home.

The view was breathtaking. We were situated on a ridge that, with its sheer vertical drop, allowed an impressive view of what lay at its base. The countryside spread out before us, in a complex patchwork of fields, small settlements and water courses. The sun glinted off the water, creating a dazzling view.

After a while, we continued driving with our guide, who spoke no English, attempting to communicating and draw attention to various points of interest. We tried our best to understand, given our appalling Chines. The scenery became no less spectacular and it was quite thrilling to bump along the roads, watching the luch scenery flash by, interspersed with impromput markets set up by the locals, selling their produce, which ranged from fresh fruit and vegetables, to beaded jewellery.

We were lucky with the weather, especially considering it was late September. Once the sun had burnt away the cloud, it was a perfectly clear sunny day. I couldn't help but think of the rain and howling wind that would inevitably accompany a day trip of this nature back home in the UK.

Gradually, we started descending again, the road twisting its way down, and I sensed something impressive was just around the corner. As the road flattened out, we began to follw the course of the Jinsha Jiang part of the Yangtse river. Either side, sheer cliffs grew up, so high they cast shadows across the vehicle and the road in front, despite it being nearly midday.