A Lazy Afternoon in Leshan

The afternoon sun is low, casting a soft glow across the red bluffs. As we stroll along the boardwalk on the opposite bank beneath the cool canopy of large trees a magnificent vista is slowly unveiled. Da Fu the Giant Buddha of Leshan reveals little from a distance – just a tantalizing taste of what is to come. First the toes, then a slender sliver of leg, followed by fingertips draped over bent knees. A calm face stares serenely down from the heights. Visitors like bees drawn to honey swarm all over the site. The late spring afternoon heat hangs in the air.

Carved into the red cliffs of the Mighty Min River, this seated Buddha is the largest of its kind with a reputation which has spread throughout the country and around the world. Today it is one of several must see places for those curious about the mystical beliefs of India and the Orient. What’s most impressive about the Leshan Buddha is the medium and location of this great work of art. While it’s possible to climb all over and inside the sculpture, or take a cruise right up to the tip of its toes the best place to appreciate it from is the tiny island of Taiyang. Formed by centuries of rock deposited as the Dadu He slows to meet the Min Jiang this little island sits beneath its feet at the junction of the rivers.

The Min and Dadu were once two of north western Sichuan’s mightiest rivers. Tapped and tamed by countless dams and hydroelectric power stations it’s difficult to imagine the threat they have been through the centuries. Just six days before we had watched the Min’s untamed waters flow through Songpan, quiet and innocent near her headwater, unaware of her fate - the slow crippling of her might and power. This afternoon we stood looking across this broad and sedately flowing river beneath the steady gaze of the Giant Buddha as it stares unblinking up the channel of the Dadu He.

By the time we arrived for the river cruise it was already mid morning. We bought a savoury pancake from a street vendor and quickly joined several tour groups boarding the next boat to leave from the docks. River cruises last about thirty minutes and leave regularly from the banks opposite the big Buddha. These are best taken in the afternoon if at all. With the morning sun rising behind the cliffs and the ship standing close inshore it is difficult to get a good photo. The cliffs are in deep shadow with background glare from the sun. A morning cruise which promises such great potential was in my opinion both a waste of time and money.

However we noticed something from the boat that morning that we had not seen the previous afternoon. A long file of people was snaking its way towards the middle of the river along the rocky break wall on Taiyang Dao. A little exploration revealed that a ferry leaves from Li Zheng Men at regular intervals for the little island. Hidden beneath the islands trees are several small food and tea outlets and many locals spend their time out here playing cards and mahjong while listening to buskers playing music.

We had earlier made a decision not to join the throngs of tourists clambering up and over and through the Buddha. We would simply enjoy it from a distance but we did take the bus across the river to the gates of the Buddha site. There’s a pleasant tree lined esplanade and boardwalk for several kilometers to the first gate. From here the road swings away from the river behind the bluff past a second gate which sells discount tickets. It’s much further to walk from here and if you’ve the time it’s a pleasant park to wander through. The public bus 13 terminates in the car park of another temple called Wuyou Si which seemed overpriced with nothing in English.

There is a little more to Leshan than the Giant Buddha that has put it her squarely on the tourist map. The older area of the city is still a focal point with a few restored remnants of the city wall, including the small Li Zheng gate still standing on the banks of the river. On the mostly flat terrain pedicabs are a cheap and relaxing way to explore the narrow heavily tree lined streets a few blocks back from the riverside boardwalks and boulevards. Trendy cafes, teahouses and bars along the banks of the Dadu are perfect venues to enjoy a cold beer and barbeque while watching the sun slowly sink in the west casting its soft golden glow over the red river bluffs enveloping the Giant Buddha.

Getting there:
From Chengdu by bus less than 2 hours
From Chongqing allow 7 hours (best choice via Chengdu) but far more interesting via Zigong

Accommodation:
Good small budget hotels all over town. We got touted at the bus station and taken to a very nice new place by pedicab driver who got about Y5 out of the deal Y100 for twin

Admission fees:
Dafu main gate Y70
Dafu back gate Y40
Wuyou Si Y70
River Cruise Y50

Taiyang Island River Walk Y2 which includes ferry Y1 each way and by far the best and cheapest option to view the Buddha. Allow an hour or two to walk out on the wall and back

New Attractions: opening soon
Oriental Buddhism Tourist Centre just across the bridge near Dafu